No wreaths here = swags!

We didn’t need a live tree or wreaths on the door where we used to live in Germany because we were working full time and usually on the road at the end of December. We always had a wreath with candles for the table, that that was enough.

When we got to Stuttgart last year on December 19^th, we didn’t bother getting a tree, and I couldn’t find any wreaths for our doors. This year I thought about getting a tree but decided that greenery in the house would suffice instead of a tree. I searched high and low for wreaths, seeing plenty of table-top wreaths with candles, when FINALLY today there were wreaths!!! But wait, they were tiny- the size of my hand. Um, why? 

Everywhere sells greenery, so I scrounged up some creative courage and made swags! The boughs to make 4 large swags cost about the same as 3 teeny tiny wreaths, and I’m pleased with the fragrant results.

HRH, aka my assistant, served in a supervisory role while I set out the branches and US wreath holders. I got one bundle of pine boughs, a bundle of what looks like spruce, and two small bundles of mixed greens. Each swag had a little bit of this and that, and were topped by US red bows that survived the transatlantic move!

The house smells nice and looks festive.

Bregenz, Austria with boat on Lake Constance to Lindau

Whew, this day trip could easily be a relaxing overnight, or even weekend! Because our elderly cat is sick, I signed up for a bunch of day trips from Stuttgart instead of a typical overnight(s) vacation. This one sounded great on paper, but I’d highly recommend that you stay overnight if you can.

We took a bus from Stuttgart to Bregenz, Austria in just over 2.5 hours. A cable car up the hill has spectacular reviews and a walking path along the large enclosures for wild animals such as mountain goats, boar, and massive deer. During the summer there is a restaurant open, but even amidst the snow, plenty of people were walking up the hill and along the paths. City folks, please note that light gloves and earmuffs do not cut it in the snowy cold!

There are two markets in Bregenz along with all the usual stores, cafes, and restaurants. The upper market included local crafters with clever and beautiful items for sale, plus Santa was driving a two-horse carriage around the old town. Roasted chestnuts were yummy! The architecture was stunning. This is worth the short but steep incline on foot.

The main market closer to the lake had all the typical stalls, along with smoked-on-the-spot salmon sandwiches. The stand with the cute mugs didn’t have cocoa, and the cocoa stand had only paper cups (what???), but the mug stand was happy to let me put a deposit on an empty mug and walk it over to the neighboring cocoa stand. Not the best cocoa in Europe, but way better than American cocoa.

There are a number of boat ferries/tours on the Bodensee, known also as Lake Constance. The short ride from Bregenz to Lindau was decked out during December with several tables of intricately designed nativity scenes and a short model train display. After our return, another ship was sailing with a fondue dinner experience! Yes, please!

When we arrived in Lindau, the harbor front market was already packed to the gills with people. This particular packaged tour offered us 15 minutes at this market before the last ship returned to Bregenz. I will never understand why anyone thought this was a good idea (the detailed schedule was not publicized ahead of time). After walking 7 minutes through the crowds into the market, it was time to turn around, unlike the folks who missed the boat and had to figure out the train back to the bus. I wish I had known about the train option, because after the boat, we had another hour in Bregenz before the bus left. I’d have rather spent that hour in Lindau and on the short train ride.

However, during the hour between the boat ride and the bus home, I discovered a terrific tapas restaurant with good food! I look forward to returning to the “Bodensee” area!

Karlsruhe, Germany

It sure helps to know someone who is familiar with a city you’ve never been to! I lucked out again, after a fun trip to Tübingen this fall, to go to Karlsruhe with someone who was a student there. Most tourists head straight for the castle, which we did, too. There are parking garages available, as well as a nice tram system, if you want to park a bit further out (we went for the garage, so don't have any tram tips). 

The castle has a permanent display with the usual suspects (forgive me), of lovely furniture, artwork, candlesticks, and so forth. The entrance to the tower with spectacular views at the top is through the museum, which is worth the ticket price. Another wing of the permanent display includes a history of the local area, including the claim that bicycles were invented here! 

There is often a special exhibit, which we saw on its last day. If they are all as good as this one was, then I highly recommend the special topic, if it is of any interest to you. There is a combination ticket for the tower, permanent and special displays. The rest of the city includes more museums, which we saved for next time, along with plenty of shopping and dining. 

Karlsruhe is definitely worth a day trip from Stuttgart (just under an hour), and if you catch a theater/concert- or really like museums & shopping, then it’s worth an overnight and a return trip. There are several vegetarian eating spots that we did not sample, along with diverse restaurants and cafes. 

Bebenhausen monastery and castle

The last time we drove past Bebenhausen was en route to a day in Tübingen, so we just looked at the gorgeous exteriors of the buildings in Bebenhausen.

This time, the amazing interiors were admired. As much as I generally dislike group tours, the only way to see the former residence of local royalty was on a tour. I took my chances with a German tour, as English tours are provided only to groups that reserve in advance. I understood about 75% of what was said, which included historical anecdotes and jokes. You don’t need to understand German to be impressed with the intricate wood carvings, decorations, and furniture of the times.

The abbey was self-guided and lovely. Similar to Maulbronn and unheated, I spent less time in Bebenhausen in the cold late fall weather. The combined ticket price of 9 Euros was more than worth it (abbey only is 5 Euros).

There is a small gift shop, restrooms, and a parking lot at street level that often fills up by late morning (the sign on the main road says dead end/no parking). There is a large parking lot a short walk away from the castle on the main road.

In true European style, a couple brought a picnic lunch and were enjoying it on a bench within the abbey gardens. I didn’t see a restaurant or snack bar within the historical property, but there is one along the main street that I didn’t try.

Bebenhausen is definitely worth a 1-2 hour stop if you like history, architecture, churches, and don’t mind climbing a bunch of stairs!  

Ice creams in Germany

OK, this is NOT a comprehensive listing of all your choices… just four that have caught my eye. Well, caught my palate? When I’m out and about, I prefer gelato, but I can’t keep it in the house…only single serve or very small containers of healthy choices.

When I was a kid growing up in Germany, my brother and I really liked this ice cream bar. It was a special treat from the local family-run grocery store. I don’t understand what a North American Native has to do with the title (Brown Bear) in German! I’ve been looking for this ice cream since we moved to Germany in 2015, and when I finally found it, I was thrilled. The flavor is not as great as I remember, which is more likely due to my taste buds evolving, but they may have changed the recipe. My favorite mint-flavored gum is now inedible due to a packaging and recipe change.

I always order a Mango Lassi when it is on the menu, and even tried to make one at home, with less than stellar results. These ice cream bars are really neat, and I’ll definitely get more. If only I could remember which store I found them in. It took over a month to re-find the banana protein milk I discovered in one store, which is NOT stocked in 4 or 5 other stores I sometimes go to. I had to write the store name on the notice board in our house.  

This stuff is very good, and I wonder if the extra protein cancels out the calories? Like, crumbs have no calories? Just kidding. A nutritionist told me that I’m not getting enough protein, as I don’t cook meat or even fish much for myself. My Great Protein Experiment is for another post, but I grabbed everything I could find with extra protein, including two ice creams. We had terrific peanut butter ice cream where we used to live, made with coconut milk, but haven’t been able to find that here yet.

Lastly, this protein ice cream is best served over fruit/dessert. It’s fine by itself but is spectacular over fruit crisp- check out this home-made quince beauty! Yay for the fun protein choices!